At precisely 9pm on 3rd Sep, it starts raining in Nafplio for the first time in four months. Big splashy raindrops, half a cupful each, that splatter on impact with feeling. And the crowd goes wild.
On the square, Greeks of all ages start spontaneously singing and dancing. A hundred villages across the Peloponnese that might have been given to the fire will now survive. I guess that 80% of the people on this squre tonight have relatives elsewhere in the Peloponnese.You can just tell.
What an amazing moment. I climb the steps back to my hotel, soaked, through the sea of smiling faces.