The Big Mac is 40 today. And it seems it’s bigger than ever: 600 calories in Mexico, over a hundred less calorific in New Zealand. (Those Antipodeans always were a health-conscious bunch.)

The biggest change in the UK is that despite all the salads tossed into the menu, nobody above social class D eats in McDonalds any more. I haven’t had a Big Mac since I was a teenager, although I did sneak a ‘Royale with Cheese’ in Paris once. The British McD’s is a working-class institution, and seems unlikely to change.